Everybody in
southern California surfed. At least
that’s what it seemed like. However,
neither my friends nor I could afford a surf board. Besides, I couldn’t surf because I couldn’t
see the sets. I had 20:3500 vision and
wore contact lenses to correct it, but I couldn’t wear my lenses at the beach
because the onshore breeze would blow them out of my eyes. I wore glasses to drive, but wouldn’t be
caught dead wearing glasses at the beach.
As soon as I parked the car, my friends sprung themselves from the four
doors of our boss chariot, and I tucked my glasses into my beach bag. Suddenly, the world became an impressionist’s
painting with color but no lines. The
fuzzy interpretation of my surroundings freed me of conformity and my senses
were immediately heightened. I lingered
behind my friends, caught in a frenzy of perceptions. The
air was clean and crisp. It almost hurt
to breathe. The fragrance of salt and
sea filled my sinus cavities and I was drawn to the tantalizing source. I loved sensing the ocean. I felt its beckoning waves drawing me closer.
As I submerged myself
in the foam and brine, the heat melted into a liquid, throbbing coolness. My long, sun-streaked hair glistened like
seaweed on the fleeting lather as it floated away from my shoulders. My strong, muscled arms propelled me smoothly
into deeper water as I dodged the breaking waves by diving under them. I joined my friends in the crazy catch-a-wave
game of body surfing, using ourselves as our surf board and riding the wave to
the beach. Then, pulling ourselves out
of the tugging water, we turned again to the sumptuous allure of immersion.
Finally, completely
spent, I plodded through the ankle-snappers and the soggy silt to the dry,
deliciously warm sand by my towel. I
flopped down, allowing the beach to engulf me just as the water had. The briny taste of the sea floated down my
throat as the saline spray dribbled from my eyelashes and I tilted my chin upward toward the warmth of the sun. My sandy
water-bed surrounded me as the pulsing, rhythmic surf fused with the call of
the gulls and the heady scent of baby oil and fried tortillas blended into a
whirling harmony of bliss and passage and peace.


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